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6.24.2009

Angono: The Philippines’ Art Capital

What do New York in the United States, Paris in France, and Rome in Italy have in common? Aside from being the forefront of progress and development, these places are considered as the art capitals of the world! They brag about their collection of art works, from paintings to sculpture to jewelry, made by world-renowned masters of art.

Since these places are so far and out of reach to the common Filipinos, it is quite impossible for them to see such works of art. Thus, many Filipinos are being deprived of witnessing the actual Mona Lisa painting of Leonardo da Vinci or the paintings at the ceiling of Sistine Chapel by Michelangelo, but they can satiate their eyes by visiting one town in Rizal that has become the depository of artworks. Yes, the Philippines has its own version of art capital, and it’s none other than Angono – the site where the oldest known work of art in the Philippines was discovered, the Angono Petrgolyphs, with 127 drawings of human and animals carved on a rock wall some 5,000 years ago.
Angono, located 30 kilometers east of Manila, can be reached through the Manila East Road for a little less than an hour using private vehicles. For commuters, the trip to the art capital usually takes an hour or a little over from Cubao or EDSA Central, where FX cabs and jeepneys bound to Angono pass.
Angono is the home of two National Artists – Lucio San Pedro, for music, and Carlos “Botong” Francisco, for visual arts. Their families have been so generous in allowing visitors to explore their houses, where the National Artists lived. The family of Lucio San Pedro still maintains the piano where the Maestro composed his masterpieces, as well as other things he used while composing. All the Maestro’s compositions, such as Sa Ugoy ng Duyan (a famous local lullaby), can also be seen and read at the house. As for the house of Botong Francisco, because most of his masterpieces were commissioned, these works belong to private individuals and institutions so his famous works like the Blood Compact and Bayanihan are not at the house. What can be seen in his home are some photographs of the master, some of his murals and paintings, and his collection of knives, baskets and kulintang, a musical instrument composed of small gongs arrayed in one row.
The street where the home of Botong Francisco is located, the popular Doña Aurora Street in Barangay Poblacion Itaas, has become a tourist attraction because of the murals on the walls of the street. Some of the tour de force of the late Botong Francisco can be seen on the walls of Doña Aurora Street, including the Merienda and the Pilgrimage to Antipolo. A mural of the Maestro and the lyrics of his composition Sa Ugoy ng Duyan can also be seen on the wall of the street. These murals were created by Angono’s resident muralist Charlie Anorico, in honor of these two great legends.
One of the must-see art galleries in Angono is the Nemiranda Arthouse. It shows the paintings of the Nemiranda family, headed by its patriarch Nemencio Miranda, Jr. illustrating the traditional and colorful life in the Philippines like fiesta celebration and happiness-filled harvest season. Also on display are the works of his 5 children, who have their own themes and interpretations. Some carvings – concrete and wood – and sculptures are likewise seen inside. The Mirandas have also become advocates of clean and healthful environment that they have turned some junks into works of art! They, too, are on display.
Another gallery that shouldn’t be missed by visitors is the Blanco Art Gallery, which showcases the life-size paintings made by Jose “Pitok” Blanco, his wife and all of his 7 children. The paintings show the rural life the Filipinos, such as the hunting of animals and harvesting of fishes, as well as their beliefs and traditions, such as the fluvial procession and Jesus’ sufferings. The Gallery also shows a “progress report” of the Blanco children as it showcases their paintings since they started to paint up to their masterpieces now. Works of local artists are also exhibited in the Gallery.
The Tiamson Art Gallery is also a must-see gallery in Angono. Owned by painter, musician and trans-media artist Orville Tiamson, this gallery boasts a collection of paintings with different touches as the artist integrates music, poetry and video into his paintings. Philippine culture is usually the theme of his paintings with modern touch, as well as children and underwater sceneries.
Aside from these three great “destinations,” other galleries, which include the Vicente Reyes Art Studio, Juban Studio and Hernandez Studio, show the works of excellent local artists. These galleries surely offer visual arts that can match the quality of those made by Botong Francisco, Pitok Blanco and Orville Tiamson especially that the owners of these studios have trained and devoted their lives to painting; in fact, Vicente Reyes was a student of Botong Francisco, Salvador Juban was the assistant of the National Artist, while Cesar Hernandez frequented Botong Francisco’s house to see him paint.
After visiting the galleries, tourists can sate their stomachs at the Balaw-Balaw Restaurant; it was put up by artist Perdigon Vocalan. Just a caveat though, the Restaurant offers exotic dishes! It serves adobong sawa at itik, ginataang uok, camaro, and Soup No. 5. Cooked tapang usa, palaka, bayawak and baboy-ramo are also served at the restaurant.
The paintings and sculptures, including the Higantes and masks made of papier-mâché, of artist Perdigon Vocalan are hanged and placed inside the Restaurant. The Ang Nuno Artists Foundation Gallery can also be found at the Restaurant which showcases its vast collection of paintings and sculptures made by artists of Angono.
Angono is also famous for several festivities including the Higantes Festival or the Feast of San Clemente, the patron saint of fishermen (celebrated every November 23), and the Carabao Festival in honor of San Isidro Labrador, the patron saint of farmers (celebrated every May 14).